Among this season’s outerwear, the ASYMMETRY DOWN VEST stands out with a particularly striking presence.
What challenges were involved in bringing this one-of-a-kind design to life? We spoke to the planning and production team, who were involved in every step from sample creation to final product, about the story behind the scenes.
Design Inspiration—Designer Kubo
I visit LA often, as I have family living there.
The culture and atmosphere of that place have had more than a little influence on my collections.
This down vest was inspired by seeing people on the streets of LA bundled up in down jackets from major brands.
How could I create something unique that stands out from the rest? That was the point I focused on most while designing.
Adding Randomness to Regularity
muller of yoshiokubo has released down wear several times before, but this time I aimed for a design that "could not be produced by major down manufacturers."
When it comes to down wear, regularly spaced stitching is the most notable feature.
This stitching plays a functional role in keeping the down inside from shifting or sinking due to gravity, and it is also an essential design element.
The challenge I took on this time was how to express randomness within this "regular down wear."
Asymmetry is a core identity of my own pattern-making, so I incorporated it into this down vest as well.
The cords and gathers that run in every direction could be described in one word: "effort." To achieve each plump, rounded shape, we went through a manufacturing process that exceeded even my own expectations.
Elements We Valued in Expressing the "muller of yoshiokubo" Style
A Silhouette and Volume That Flatter the Body
Once the design was finalized, we moved on to pattern creation and then to the toile (prototype) check phase. During the toile phase in particular, we wear the garments to identify areas for adjustment and strive for a better finish.
I held repeated discussions with our director, Uchida, checking again and again how the piece would look on a woman's body. We carefully checked every detail, such as fine-tuning the bust and waist areas to ensure they weren't overly bulky, and balancing the stitching.
A Neckline That Suits Dresses
Our brand concept is "Dress For Daily Life."
At muller of yoshiokubo, we propose enjoying dresses as part of your daily routine.
With that in mind, I created this down vest to look beautiful even when layered over a dress. The neckline was an area I was particularly meticulous about; I adopted a round cut to highlight the décolleté beautifully.
Styling Possibilities
This down vest features a design where the front and back hem lengths differ, effectively covering the hips.
The armholes are designed to be quite large, giving it an overall sense of effortless, laid-back charm.
It is an item that will truly elevate your everyday styling.
Beyond dresses, you can enjoy pairing it with a variety of aesthetics, from casual trousers to tailored pieces.
The unique color palette is another characteristic.
I hope you will use this piece to open the door to a new style of outerwear.
Wearing Things Long and with Care
Not limited to the ASYMMETRY DOWN VEST, every muller of yoshiokubo item explores patterns, fabrics, and details that make you wonder "How was this made?" the moment you pick it up.
I feel that my experience studying haute couture in NY is truly reflected here.
I remember my hands shaking when I had to cut fabric that cost 70,000 yen per meter.
The love for fabric and the pursuit of detail cultivated through such experiences are expressed in this down vest.
I believe true sustainability lies in clothing that you can wear for a long time with attachment. I would be happy if everyone feels the same through this down vest.
Ingenuity in Realizing the Design—Production Team
Custom Lengths for Every Cord and Gather
To recreate a silhouette that looks balanced despite its distorted, asymmetrical, and complex cord placement, every single cord is a different length.
Cutting each cord—none of which are the same size—and threading them through the designated spots without error is an incredibly labor-intensive process.
Every piece is finished with artisan craftsmanship, with people measuring the dimensions and creating the gathers by hand one by one.
Some might wonder, "Is it really necessary for artisans to do this by hand?" The ASYMMETRY DOWN VEST, where the amount of gathering varies by section, is an unconventional design that requires adding stitches to the down, threading the cords, and gathering the fabric. Naturally, the difficulty level is high, and there are few artisans in Japan who can pull this off.
Ingenuity in the Padding
For the outer and inner fabric, we used water-repellent materials suitable for down wear.
For the filling, we adopted a down sheet from an Italian manufacturer called THINDOWN.
The down is dispersed uniformly within this high-performance padding, creating a finish that is both light and plush.
The reason for using this sheet-type down was to realize the complex, intersecting cord design. While mass production and pricing at a reasonable level would have been difficult with conventional down packs, this design only became possible thanks to the down sheet.
Furthermore, by sandwiching a layer called "spunbond" between the outer, inner, and filling, we have taken care to prevent the filling from poking through the surface.
The Difficulty of Sewing
Given the design, which involves threading cords and creating gathers, we had to be mindful from the fabric selection stage. We carefully checked the compatibility of the multiple layered fabrics to ensure the gathers would pull smoothly.
Though it isn't visible from the outside, the layers naturally create thickness. Thick fabric can cause shifting during sewing, which might unintentionally look like unwanted bunching.
There are only a handful of factories in Japan capable of handling down while managing such complex sewing. We offered the project to every factory that met our criteria, but were turned down by many. I still remember the feeling of relief when we finally found one factory that could meet our requirements.
By basting the thick fabric to prevent shifting and sewing with great care, we achieved a truly beautiful finish.
The Splendor of Japanese Craftsmanship
A design that feels intricate at a single glance. The fact that we can offer it at this price point despite the complex labor involved is the result of our in-house planning and production.
Although it is mass-produced, each piece is finished by hand, making it feel almost like an art piece. Naturally, with its highly fashionable design, it radiates a one-of-a-kind presence.
This is a garment that may become difficult to continue producing in the future, both in terms of technology and cost. I hope you will take this opportunity to get your hands on this special down vest, brought to life by Japanese artisan skill.
ASYMMETRY DOWN VEST
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